They should last a long time too because the wax wont chip or flake off as they get nicked up during use and they are waterproofed short of an extended float in the pool. They look beautiful with a nice satiny finish, and they have perfect tension during play. Wipe down each piece to get all the dust off, apply a thin layer, let it dry for 30 minutes or so, and then buff it to a shine. T apply, it is just like waxing your car. It is a wax in mineral spirits so that it can penetrate the wood fibers a bit. I used the Minwax brand that you can get at any hardware or home improvement store. I kid you not, and I was busing my hump! 3. All and all I spend a good 10-12 hours sanding. This went much faster and brought each piece up to glass like smoothness. Don't forget the end grain! Even if you can't nock it down to perfectly smooth it is still important to open the fibers so the finish penetrates.
After the 80 on the palm sander I went to 220 grit on a rubber sanding block. A bench mounted belt sander would have cut a good couple hours off this step but there is still some handwork regardless. A router would be overkill if you are sanding anyways since it is so easy to cut through pine with sandpaper. There are lots of them too! It took a very long time and I rounded over all the edges. Sanding: I started using 80 grit on a palm sander to knock down all the larger imperfections. Different jigs for different saws, but I'm sure you get the point. For me this was simply a block of wood screwed to a 1x2 and clamped to my mitre saw. Something that you can but the uncut wood up to so that you cut exactly the same size piece each time. You can do it with 7 8' 2x4's but you should get 8 so that you can pick the best pieces. I like that my peices had a little character and I had to chuck a couple where the knots were to extreem. Select 2x4's are likely only straighter with less knots and select doesn't imply a finish sanded product. If you could find an "s4s"(sanded 4 sides) pine 2x4 that would help with finishing work but it is not likely you will. With "spf" 2x4's these blocks are heavy enough, so I would not recommend a hardwood for safety and convenience reasons.
Sometimes you get a little colored sap wood and that looks good after finishing. Look for wood that has square edges and minimal or only small knots. a little bend in an 8' board isn't noticeable when you cut it into 10" chunks. Wood selection: Straight isn't that big of a deal. They came out beautiful and are smooth like glass for easy play and good protection. cut 54 of those suckers at 10.5 inches and you are good to go! THAT being said, I spent less than an hour cutting and a good 12-15 hours finishing. All you really need to know if in usa and using regular 2x4 wall studs. Looking this all over this seems very simple, and it is. When you have all the materials you can start measuring and marking where you are going to saw.Īfter you have done that you can start to saw!! As finishing touch you can sand down the edges for a smooth look.Ĭost : Wooden beams +/- 25eur, Box 10eur I know the 1 to 3 ratio is not applied but I just took some wooden beams that were available at the store and then kind of tried to fit all the pieces in the length of the beams. My blocks are 21cm long, 6.7cm wide and 4.2cm high. To set up the game, the included loading tray is used to stack the initial tower which has 18 levels of three blocks placed adjacent to each other along their long side and perpendicular to the previous level (so, for example, if the blocks in the first level lie lengthwise north-south, the second level blocks will lie east-west)" Materials Each block is three times as long as it is wide, and one fifth as thick as it is long (1.5 x 2.5 x 7.5 cm). This is merely a description of what I myself have done, and the logic behind how it was done.On Wikipedia it says: ". Of course finally: you do this at your own risk I’m not responsible for any damages incurred from following this advice. Obviously for the same reason, the longer side needs to be the side in contact with the jack stand and car. I agree that in the picture in the OP, it is not thick enough. While it has to be wider than it is tall, it should be thick enough too, especially if the weight is bearing down on a small area. The exception is if the pressure is evenly distributed along the piece, like photo shows - that’s ok. Some pieces of wood could have structural vulnerabilities - do this with due caution. Otherwise, it’s at risk of splitting, which would result in the car falling the height of the wood, and perhaps more. It’s probably safe - if you make sure the grain of the wood is aligned perpendicularly to any small pressure points - for example, the recommended jack points on most cars.
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